Salmon has a reputation for being difficult, and almost all of that reputation comes from cooks who move it too early. A fillet laid skin-side down in a properly heated pan will stick for the first two minutes and then release on its own, and the crust it builds in that time is the entire difference between a good piece of fish and a grey one.

The glaze goes on at the end, never at the beginning. Honey and citrus burn long before the interior of a thick fillet is done, so the pan does the cooking and the glaze does the finishing — brushed on in the last two minutes, then given just enough heat to tighten and gloss.

Lemon Extra Virgin Olive Oil is what keeps this from tipping into dessert territory. It carries the brightness through the sweetness, and a final squeeze of fresh lemon over the plate resets the whole dish. Serve it with something plain — rice, blistered green beans, a wedge of grilled bread.