Celery is the vegetable most cooks treat as a supporting player, and that is exactly why this soup surprises people. Given a whole bunch instead of two ribs, celery turns green and grassy and clean in a way that no other vegetable quite manages, and the Yukon Golds give it enough body to feel like dinner.

The knife work matters more than usual here. Separate and trim the ribs first, then cut them small and even so they soften at the same rate as the potato. Uneven celery leaves you with stringy bits floating in an otherwise silky bowl.

Blend it smooth, finish it with a drizzle of Tuscan Herbs Extra Virgin Olive Oil and a splash of Marc De Champagne Vinegar, and the whole thing lifts. Serve it hot in winter or chilled in summer — it works honestly in both directions.