A whole tenderloin looks intimidating on the counter and takes about six minutes to break down once you understand what you are removing. Silverskin, the tough membrane running along one side, will contract in the pan and curl the medallions if it stays. The loose chain of meat along the edge comes off too — save it for a stir-fry rather than throwing it away.

Once the loin is trimmed and tied into even rounds, the cooking is almost too simple to write down. A dry surface, a very hot pan, and the discipline to leave the meat alone long enough to build a crust. Tenderloin has almost no fat to protect it, so a minute of inattention is the difference between medium-rare and grey.

The pan sauce is the reason to cook this in a skillet instead of an oven. Marc De Champagne Vinegar lifts the browned bits off the bottom, shallots sweeten it, cold butter thickens it, and the whole thing takes less time than the meat needs to rest.