Ribs don't need a competition rub and a fourteen-hour cook. They need low steady heat, a clean bone side, and a sauce that goes on at the right moment. Pig Spit is the mild end of the Mr. Popo's line, sweet and smoky with no burn, which makes it the glaze for a rack you want everyone at the table to eat.

The membrane comes off first. That silverskin on the bone side is a barrier. Leave it on and your rub is sitting on a sheet of plastic instead of meat, and the glaze never gets underneath. Grip it with a dry paper towel and take it off in one pull. Then it is 275°F, wrapped through the middle stretch to push the collagen over, unwrapped at the end so the bark firms back up.

Sauce goes on in the last fifteen minutes and only in the last fifteen minutes. Pig Spit has sugar in it. Brush it on at hour two and you get a black rack that tastes like ash. Brush it on at the end and the sugar sets into lacquer while the meat is still moist underneath.