This is what leftover brisket is for. A quesadilla asks nothing of the meat except that it be shredded and warm, and the flour tortilla does the job a bun would do without any of the bulk. Cut into wedges it becomes finger food, which is the only way twenty-four of anything gets eaten standing up.

Mr. PoPo's Hot Spit sits one rung above Pig Spit, with habanero doing the work, and it goes in twice for a reason. Half a cup mixed into the brisket seasons the filling from inside. The last quarter cup brushed on after griddling gives you the sauce flavor raw and bright, because anything that hits a hot pan loses its top notes.

Cheese goes down first, against the tortilla, on both sides of the fold. It melts into glue and holds the wedge together when someone picks it up. Brisket on top of bare tortilla slides out the second you cut it, and a quesadilla that falls apart on the platter is a quesadilla nobody takes.